Garden Tools I’m Drooling Over

  I love shiny stuff! I’m always following after the latest tech gadget or cell phone or whatever. I’m a geek like that, even though I never buy anything. I guess I’m blessed in the fact that I can partake in the joy of new shiny things without actually owning any.

 There’s a slew of really cool and shiny gardening tools and equipment I spend too much time drooling over in catalogs. Like, for instance-

 

Glaser’s Wheel Hoe:

    Wheel hoes, while a little difficult to use at first, are a great gardening tool! It’s impractical for small gardens, or for raised beds, really, unless they aren’t framed. But for small market gardens or a large family garden it’s nearly a must. By pushing with both arms you can exert for much more force more quickly than with other kinds of weeding implements. Like so:

 

It’s almost as quick as one of those mini-tiller things, but doesn’t use gas, is (almost) cheaper, and doesn’t bounce around like a crazed chihuahua. Maybe it’s not cheaper. The price tag on this jewel is a tad steep, if you ask me, considering there’s not all THAT much to it. But it definetly qualifies as shiny stuff and the price tag only adds to it’s considerable drool-worthiness. Also, I’ve also been told these Glaser tools are built very well

 An Austrian Scythe-

  Scythes RULE. I’ve always wanted one, but never got around to actually making the purchase. American sythes suck- being heavy and awkward- but this light, hardwood, European style scythe is much easier to use.  There are several misconceptions concerning this implement, or at least poor associations. The Grim Reaper carries one, and that’s enough to repel most people from relacing their weedeaters. Okay, maybe not.

  Fact is, a skilled scythe user can cut grass faster than a weedeater can. Weedeaters use lots of fuel, and make loud obnoxious noises, so why do people even bother? Well, partially, I suppose, to the fact that scything is more of a art to be learned that a tool to pick up and put to use. Keeping the blade level, correct sharpening, not hitting things, etc, take a little time to master, I am told. I have no elite scything skills as of yet. I would like to, chicks dig dudes who can scythe.

 Felco pruner-

   This is the Cadillac of pruners. Maybe the Lambo. This pair of shears will last a lifetime. Several lifetimes, maybe. The shininess factor of this tool is very high.

BCS 722GX 8HP Tiller-

 

   Okay, okay, I can dream, can’t I? I saw this waaaaaaaaaaay cool tiller last January at the annual SSAWG conference in St. Louisville. Totally blown away- big, powerful, fast tine spin, and it looks like a giant Fisher Price toy to boot!

  The really awesome thing about  BCS tillers is not the so much the tiller itself (although it’s great), but the myriad of attachments that go with it. Lawn mower, sickle mower, chipper/shredder, power sweeper, snow thrower (comes in real handy in south Louisiana) and- of all things- a dozer blade(!)(?). With the sticker price of $2499.00, and the tiller coming it at just under $500, I think I’ll be waiting a long time for this bad boy.

 

As you may have noticed, all these products come from GrowOrganic.com- which is a great gardening resource for tools and fertilizer. I’ve ordered from them multiple times and they’re great. They actually make me wish I lived in California, since they have all of the great organic fertilizer products that no one in the south carries- like Chilean bat guano and soft rock phosphate.

One more thing to add to the drool-list. How about a high-tunnel from Grower’s Supply? I want to do a full post on high tunnels soon. I’m currently apprenticing on a farm that grow veggies almost exclusively in high-tunnels. They’re basically oversized unheated greenhouses, and are a MUST for growing good cool weather crops year long in climates like mine. Again, pricey yet green-ilicious!

 

Oh yes, like any hobby- or obsession, if you will-  there’s plenty of shiny stuff for gardeners to lust after. This is only a small sampling of my mental wish-list. 

Making Candied Kumquats

 

  Today I ventured into the kitchen. I do this as little as possible as cooking absolutely terrifies me. However, I promised myself I’d make candied kumquats from my current kumquatious bounty, so make them I did.

  Finding a recipe was easy. Third result from the top on Google Search was this site and recipe. Four ingredients? One of them water? I think I can handle this.

 It was a rather straight forward process, although I had to rush out in the night to buy a candy thermometer. I’ve never made any kind of candy before, so this was new, and my sister scared me with warnings about the temperature having to be absolutely perfect in order to get the sticky sugary stuff to the soft ball stage- or whatever. She really did frighten me, so I spent the entire lengthy trip from lukewarm to 238 degrees F with my head in my hands and my elbows glued to the counter; staring at the little blue line on the thermometer that seemed to move at a rate of 1 cm every 30 minutes.

 For all that, they seemed to come out all right. Many people serve candied kumquats with meat- like chicken or ham, but I enjoy eating them right out of hand for a sugary sticky goodness with a sharp bite at the end. Om Nom Nom Nom…

 There are other great kumquatiatory recipes out there, including a page on KumquatGrowers.com that includes tasty names such as Kumquat Oat Meal Cookies, Kumquat Pound Cake, Hawaiian Chicken /w Kumquat, and many others! 

Growing Kumquats

 Today I’ll be talking about the sweet and sour goodness that is the Kumquat fruit!

 Kumquats are a uniquely delicious fruit. They look like thumb-sized oblong oranges because…well…that’s what they are!  Originally from China, they’re now grown all over the world in tropical and subtropical climates. They’re pretty fun eaten fresh as you simply pop the whole thing in your mouth- skin and all. It takes awhile to convince kumquat newbies that they don’t have to peel the skin. In fact, some people just eat the skin and throw the pulp away (the skin is actually the sweetest part of the kumquat-Weird!). I happen to like the contrasting sweet and sour flavors, so I don’t do that.  It’s a great taste experience.

 Kumquats are often candied, something I haven’t tried to do yet, but will soon since I have so freakin’ many of them.

   The two main types grown in the US are Nagami and Meiwa. I don’t know the difference other than the shape: Meiwa is rounder than Nagami.

    One of the  crazy-cool things about Kumquats is that the fruit ripens (depending on variety) in mid winter to early spring. Fresh fruit in Feburary? Awesome!

 Cold Hardiness

  Kumquats happen to be among the most cold-hardy citrus trees on the planet, and probably the only cold-hardy citrus that is more than barely edible. There are many species of citrus that can take the cold, such as the trifoliate orange, but most are blatantly inedible. I mean, would you like to eat something called a ‘trifoliate orange’? Give me a break.

 Kumquats can take temperatures down to 10 degrees Fahrenheit when they are dormant. At least, that is what I’ve been told. Since planting the tree four years ago we have not experienced temperatures that low, and I hope we never do. When they are dormant is the key term here. You won’t be protected against any early or late freeze, and sometimes, during a winter warm spell in the South, the trees will ‘wake up’ before they’re supposed to, only to take serious damage during the next round of cold weather.

  Kumquats, like all citrus, are risky even in the deeper parts of the Southern US. Cold weather happens, and unless global warming decides to kick into full gear soon, you risk losing your lovingly tended tree that you’ve watched grow up for all these years. While they can be protected (more on that later), sometimes there’s only so much you can do. I wouldn’t try it below zone 8 outdoors. But, as they say, nothing ventured nothing gained, and a Kumquat tree only costs 15-20 bucks so you really have nothing to loose and lots of small, oblong, sweetly sour fruits to gain.

  For many of you, if not most, citrus killing temperatures are a frequent occurrence. For such folks, growing kumquats in a container is a viable option; letting them live outside on your patio during the summer and bringing them in for the winter. However, you will likely have to find a kumquat on a dwarf rootstock for this, as a full sized tree would quickly become rootbound.

Growing

 Kumquats grow well in most soils, though a sandy loam is ideal. They, like all citrus, appreciate a few doses of nitrogen each year, most easily applied through foliar spray with Fish Emulsion. I personally let my chickens in the citrus orchard once a year. Their nitrogen-rich manure does the job nicely.

  Pruning isn’t necessary, as the tree will take a nice shape on it’s own. Your main concern, once again, will be keeping it warm. There is nothing more unpleasant that being out a 8:00 in the evening on a cold winter’s night spreading drop cloths over your kumquat tree, but it’s a worthwhile sacrifice. I protect mine whenever the temperature drops to 24 degrees or below, although you could probably let it get a little colder before worrying about protection. I like to be on the safe side. Here’s some ideas for covering-

• “Banking Up” the soil around the trunk- This is good to do anyway when winter starts. Simply  mound up soil 6 inches high or so around the trunk, then put mulch on top of that as an added precaution. Remove the dirt mound in the spring.

• Blankets, dropcloths, quilts, etc. When it’s cold at night, what do you do? Why, you snuggle under the blankets, of course! Kumquats appreciate this tactic equally. If it’s a windy night, be sure to tie the blankets on the branches or use string. If you’re blankets fall off at night you can pick it up and wrap it around yourself again, Kumquats don’t have this luxury. The heaviest blankets are the best. Don’t use plastic sheeting like Visqueen as it could actually exacerbate the problem.

• For extra cold weather, try wrapping Christmas lights around the tree before spreading the blankets. You neighbors may think you strange for stringing Christmas lights in February, but there’s nothing you can do about this.

• For really cold weather, some people place an electric or propane heater near the tree, under the blankets. This is probably the most unsustainable thing you could possibly do, as well as a significant fire hazard. I personally would just let the darn thing die, but in theory it should work well. Your neighbors at this point might start making phone calls about you.

•  Overhead irrigation is used often in large commercial citrus farms. You could simply run a sprinkler at night, making sure most of the branches are hit. This method will not be effective at very cold temperatures. This might not make immediate sense, but the following explaination is helpful-

    The latent heat of water, released when the water freezes, is the principal factor involved in protecting the plant. One gallon of water at 320 F, changing into ice at 320 F, gives off approximately 1200 BTU’s (British Thermal Units) of heat. Some of the heat released goes into the plant leaves and blossoms, some goes out into the air and some goes to the soil. The heat absorbed by the plant is enough to keep the plant above its freezing point, except when the air temperature is very low or when heat is removed rapidly by a cold wind. There is some transfer of heat because the water temperature is above freezing, but most of the protection comes as the water freezes and latent heat is released. The slush ice and the increased humidity also increase protection. -source    

 

• Flying a helicopter continuously over your tree at night will also help, as the rotors will push warm air downwards. Laugh if you will, but I know of a fellow blueberry farmer who has done this. You neighbors might not appreciate this tactic either.

Growing In The Bathroom

 

 I recently converted my bathroom into a seed starting and winter growing room. It didn’t take much, really. I built a drain-pan by nailing some 2×2s to the floor and lining it with tarpaper and plastic sheeting. I then bought a bunch of shop lights and plastic shelves from Home Depot. Wha-lah! Instant plant room-

 

 

  This is a great place to start my spring vegetables, since the temperature inside the house is next to ideal for tomatoes and other veggies. It’s a tad cramped in there… Okay, it’s really cramped in there, but I can squeeze my slender frame through with relative ease and still manage to take a shower each day. I still prefer this to a greenhouse, at least for right now. Although the space is very limited I don’t have to worry about heating a separate structure. It’s greener, since I only have to heat one building instead of two. Also, building a greenhouse would have taken much more work and work = unpleasantness.

 Although I’ll be starting my spring plants relatively soon, right now I’m using it to overwinter some of my more interesting edible plants; mostly tropicals.

 Neem Tree Azadirachta indica

    

  Neem is a miracle plant. It’s used for a myriad of purposes in many places all over the world; including such uses as treatment of snakebites, an ingredient in toothpaste, flea and tick control in pets, as well as many other things.

 In organic agriculture, it’s used as a mild organic insecticide and fungicide. That’s the main reason I’m growing these plants. I’d like to try my hand at making my own Neem Oil for pests since the commercial stuff is pricey.

   I tried to germinate Neem seeds once before, and failed. I think I had old seeds. The Neem Trees I’m growing now are from Neem Tree Farms (descriptive name, no?) based in Florida. They sell older plants, but I bought a dozen young seedlings for $7. Not a bad price for 12 amazing plants. So far they have all survived, I potted them in 1 gallon plastic pots filled with a mixture of compost, vermiculite, and a little garden soil sprinkled with blood meal.

   Neem is tropical and must be kept inside during the winter.

 Natal Plum- Carissa grandiflora

 

 I got these seeds from a GardenWeb trade. I had never heard of the plant before this, and I still know very little about it. It originates in South Africa. It’s supposed to be a quick grower and a candidate for hedges in other regions. It’s tropical, taking cold damage at 28 degrees or lower, so I’m figuring I’ll end up growing these guys in pots. The fruit is supposed to be tasty, although I’m not sure if it reliably fruits in sub-tropical Louisiana. I guess we’ll find out, won’t we?

Cranberry Hibiscus- Hibiscus acetosella

   This is an interesting Hibiscus with edible fruit, leaves, and flowers and unique red foliage.  The leaves are similar in taste to sorrel, and the calyx of the flowers are often used to make a cranberry-like drink (when I get flowers I’ll post on how to make it). It seems to be widely used in tea as well. Huh.

 

Purple Passionflower- Passiflora incarnata

  

 Passionfruit is awakening in the U.S. public consciousness. Many grocery stores sell this tasty fruit now, as well as flavored juices. Passionfruit is a tropical plant, and can take no frost, unless you’re growing it cousin Maypop, the only perennial passionfruit in our region.

  Passionfruit sets after the ever-popular, wild and crazy passionflower that we all know and love. So aside from the tasty fruit you get to enjoy the really freaky looking blooms.

  I got these seeds from a seed trade. I know nothing about the variety other than it’s purple, because that’s what the seed envelope said.

Cherimoya Annona cherimola -

 

  A tropical fruit tree that I doubt can successfully be grown in a container, but I’m doing it anyway. Also called Custard Apple, Cherimoya grows to 25 ft or more. While tropical, it does need a period of cooler temperatures in order to keep it from dormancy. The fruit is kinda freaky looking and the size of a large apple. It’s a relative to the PawPaw- which I can’t seem to grow successfully either.

 

 

Chaya Cnidoscolus aconitifolius -

 

  I’ve talked about this before, and I finally bought one. Chaya is a tough, frost hardy (to a point) tree that has edible spinach like leaves that must be eaten cooked due to some toxin or other. Many tropical trees have edible leaves, but this is the only deciduous one I know of other than Fragrant Spring Tree.

 That all that’s in the Bathroom right now, other than some heirloom lettuce and some pepper plants I’ve kept in containers and brought inside.

 Sorry for the lack of postage going on around here. Holidays and all that. I’m looking forward to posting more frequently now.

                                                                

Hydroponics Q & A Session

by Dr. Chris Kline

Hydroponics continues to make its way into the mainstream, and with this popularity hydroponics specific retailers are finding their way into towns and cities across the country. Fortunately for those who are not lucky enough to have a hydroponics store nearby there are a wide variety of online resources for equipment, supplies and information, but for those with access to these new retail stores they offer community, support and advice as well as a variety of products to choose from.
This article presents an advice filled interview with Justin C. one of the owners of Sea of Green, a growing hydroponics retailer founded in 1992, with two stores in the Phoenix Arizona area and one in Tucson.

Question: What are some of the most commonly asked questions you get about hydroponics for the home gardener?
Answer: “How does hydroponics work” is probably the most common question. It seems like such a strange and misunderstood concept to many people. Hydroponics means growing plants without dirt, all the food for the plants is in the water instead. People think it is a really complicated process, but if you can measure out teaspoons you can probably figure out hydroponics. In Arizona there is also a buzz about wanting to know if you can do hydroponics outside. The answer is yes, however hydroponics is often about control to get optimum growth and so doing hydro outside just takes a little more consideration.
Question: What are the biggest advantages of hydroponics for the greenhouse gardener?
Answer: The biggest advantages are more plants in a much smaller space, ability for total environmental control, no need for toxic pesticides, and speed of growth.
Question: What are some of your favorite hydroponics systems at various price breaks (low, medium and high) and why do you like these systems?
Answer: Bucket systems are the lowest cost and often the most successful units for anyone interested in trying something like a single pepper plant or an assortment of herbs. This system generally consists of a five gallon bucket with a pot insert and a drip collar on top that recirculates water 24 hours a day. The system is easy to setup, requires limited maintenance and is relatively inexpensive. A middle range system would be something more automated like an ebb/flow type system on a timer. This system consists of a reservoir that usually sits underneath the tray supporting the plants. Water floods the tray several times a day, per the timer, and then drains back down to the reservoir. This system is more aggressive then a bucket system and give growers a little more flexibility to grow more then one plant. Aeroponics is the most expensive type system where the roots hang in the air with nothing around the roots except the spray of nutrient solution with a high power pump. This is the super charged system, but this system is the least forgiving. I would never recommend it for the novice, but rather for the experienced hydroponics gardener who wants to get twice the yields in about half the time.
Question: What are some of the biggest mistakes home gardeners make with hydroponics?
Answer: Hydroponics is a skill like anything else and sometimes it is necessary to tinker with a system to get it dialed in for the aggressive growth that is possible with hydroponics. Patience is very important and if anyone sticks with it even a few months they can be very successful. It is also a very experimental hobby and no one person has all the answers. Everyone has a situation that is a little different and everyone’s setup is different.  Besides small errors like pH, or over nutrient levels, people often rely on simple answers from books that don’t account for a grower’s particular situation. Personal experience is the only way to get it right.
Question: Can you give us a few of your favorite tips for home hydroponics?
Answer: Start simple, but don’t overlook all fundamental parts of plant growth including light, CO₂, temperatures, etc. Keeping a grow diary helps to keep track what you did right or wrong. Check pH! Especially if using chemical nutrients over organic nutrients. Organic nutrients are easier to use, but chemical nutrients can give faster growth. And be patient!

Question: What do you see in the future of hydroponics for the home gardener?
Answer: It is taking off as a popular form of gardening with more people getting into it every year. The thing I love the most about this industry is that you are constantly learning new things and the innovations never cease. For the home gardener it is a relatively new concept, maybe 50 years old, or so. But the expansion of the industry is reducing the cost and simplifying the methods so that even novice gardeners will succeed with hydroponics. The growers who come to us at the store are not in one time and that’s it. We build a relationship with our customers and see them coming in every week, year after year, learning from us as we learn from them.
Hopefully the trend towards more local hydroponics retail outlets will continue and this may even push the traditional garden centers to include more resources for indoor, greenhouse and hydroponics gardening. GG

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Dr. Christopher J. Kline is a master gardener and writer living in Paradise Valley Arizona. He is an editor for The Ultimate Sunflower Site www.SunflowerOcity.com and a columnist for Garden and Greenhouse Magazine www.gardenandgreenhouse.net. You can reach Chris at CKline72@Cox.netThis e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it

Natural Pest Control for the Greenhouse and Garden

By Dr. Chris Kline

Many gardeners would rather use natural products to control pests, but are confused about developing an overall strategy for natural pest control. The best offense is a good defense and the easiest way to prevent insect damage is to discourage them from coming in to the garden in the first place. The following steps will help:

• Avoid Weak Plants - Find a local planting calendar by doing an internet search on the county in questions name and the words “planting calendar”. Make sure to only plant annuals during their proper planting season. This will help to assure healthy plants that can better combat minor infestation. Remove plants that clearly are doing poorly; they may already be infected. If not, they will attract pests. Pull the weak plants and dispose of them away from the garden area, and do not attempt to compost them.
• Build Healthy, Organic Soil - Natural composting methods, mulching and top-dressing your soil with compost or natural fertilizer is the best way to develop strong, vigorous plants. Get an inexpensive soil testing kit and follow the instructions to amend soil pH and other problems as necessary.
• Use Seaweed and Fish Fertilizer - Seaweed contains trace elements such as iron, zinc, barium, calcium, sulfur and magnesium, and fish emulsion contains primary nutrients which promote healthy development in plants. Seaweed and Fish fertilizer are a great organic alternative and will enhance growth and give plants the strength to better withstand disease.
• Clean Gardening Practices - Clean the garden area of debris and weeds which are breeding places for insects. Buy quality mulch and keep a thin layer on top of the soil. The mulch will discourage weeds, keep plant leaves out of the soil and hold in moisture.
• Interplant and Rotate Crops - Insect pests are often plant specific. When plantings are mixed, pests are less likely to spread throughout a crop. It also helps to plant aromatic flowers like marigolds between vegetables to discourage insects and inhibit their spread. Rotating crops each year is a common method to avoid re-infestation of pests which have over-wintered in the ground. In some cases where soil bound pests are abundant it may be necessary to undertake off-season soil sterilization procedures.
• Keep Foliage Dry - Water early so foliage will be dry for most of the day. Wet foliage encourages insect and fungal damage. Trim lower leaves so they are not on the ground and keep mulch around the base of all plants.
• Keep Tools Clean - It is a good idea to clean tools before moving from one garden area to another. This will reduce the speed of invading insects. Clean tools with warm soapy water every couple weeks during the growing season.

Diligent application of these clean gardening practices is the first line of defense. Another beneficial practice for natural pest control is the planting of host plants to attract beneficial insects. Beneficial insects are insects which can be attracted to the garden, or bought from catalogues, which prey on harmful insects or their larvae. These are the most common: Nematodes; Ladybugs; Lacewings; Hover-Flies; Praying Mantis; Brachonids; Chalcids; and Ichneumon Wasps.  The following are plants that can be helpful in attracting beneficial insects: Carrots; Celery; Parsley; Caraway; Queen Anne’s lace; Daisies; Tansy; Yarrow; Goldenrod; Black-Eyed Susans; and Asters. By creating a great host environment some beneficial insects will show up, but to help Mother Nature they are also available from online sources like www.naturescontrol.com.
When beneficial insects are being used to combat pests in the garden, even natural pesticides should be used sparingly and only on infected plants because they will have an adverse impact on the beneficial insects as well as the unwanted ones. Many natural sprays for a variety of pest problems can be made at home and complete lists of various recipes for different problems can be found online. One great source can be found at the following link: www.realmama.org/archives-spring-2006/kitchentogarden.php
Although, some homemade sprays work quite well on particular pests, some natural commercial sprays that are now on the market offer perhaps a more comprehensive and convenient solution. One such recent product introduction is Ed Rosenthal’s Zero Tolerance Herbal Pesticide-Fungicide. It is refreshing to find a natural product that actually does what it says and smells great as well. Zero Tolerance is made of pure food ingredients and is bio-degradable and environmentally safe. It is effective at controlling spider mites, aphids, whiteflies, thrips, ants, caterpillars, gnats, root aphids, mealy bugs, and scale, as well as powdery mildew, and gray and white mold. Information on Zero Tolerance can be found at www.z-tolerance.com

By applying these natural pest control techniques it is possible to stay one step ahead of the pests and be ready for them when they arrive. GG

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Dr. Christopher J. Kline is a master gardener and writer living in Paradise Valley Arizona. He is an editor for The Ultimate Sunflower Site http://www.SunflowerOcity.com , a columnist for Garden and Greenhouse Magazine http://www.gardenandgreenhouse.net and an owner of Greenhouse and Garden Supply http://greenhouseandgardensupply.com . You can reach Chris at CKline72@Cox.net

Overwintering in the Greenhouse

By Dr. Chris Kline

Many gardeners seem to shut down operations in the winter entirely and start completely anew each season. With proper overwintering techniques, which are made much easier with the use of a greenhouse, many plants can be preserved only to be more vigorous beautiful producers the next season. In addition to perennial flowers and ornamentals most berries including Black, Blue and Raspberries can be grown for more than one season as can most herbs including Basil, Chives and Parsley. Several vegetables are also perennials including Asparagus, Garlic, Shallots, Sweet Beets, Sweet Potato and many Peppers.

There are some distinct advantages to using a greenhouse for overwintering. In many areas rodents can be a significant source of damage to plants during the winter months when other food is scarce. Another major cause of damage and loss of plants during winter is caused by freezing and fluctuations in soil temperature, and this is an even bigger problem for plants in containers. Plants out in the open also often sustain tissue burn from the moisture loss caused by cold dry air. Proper overwintering in a greenhouse makes it much easier to protect against these and other winter hazards to plants.

It is possible to keep many plants from one year to the next. They will not continue to bloom profusely and grow  over winter as they did during the summer, but in many cases they will have better production than they did in year one and will give the gardener a great head start on the next season.

Depending upon the climate, late August (Hardness zones 3-6) to late September (Hardness zones 7-8) is generally the window for beginning the overwintering process. In most areas it is practically impossible to keep plants thriving and producing outside past October. The low sun and shorter days tend to induce ‘semi-dormancy’, a period of reduced functioning in the plants. For this reason the beginning of the overwintering program will start by gradually tapering off watering and fertilization in October. In the winter the soil should not become bone dry or dusty, but should be watered only occasionally during the plant’s dormancy.

It is best to hold off on moving plants into the greenhouse until just before the first freeze of winter sets in. Moving the plants inside too early will slow down the hardening off process and may result in undesirable out of season growth.

Once plants are in the greenhouse temperature control is very important to overwintering success. Temperatures of 45°55°F are ideal. The higher the temperatures above this range, the more likely the plants will produce weak growth out of season which can make them susceptible to various infestations. Greenhouse temperatures can generally be controlled using ventilation during the day to keep the greenhouse from overheating. In very cold climates a heat source may be necessary to keep the temperature close to the ideal range, particularly at night.

Most plants will benefit from some pruning back in mid-March in preparation for the vigorous growth during the new season. This is also a good time to consider transplanting plants that grew a lot during the past summer into the garden or larger containers. Plants adjust best to gradual change. At this time, the greenhouse can be allowed to reach slightly warmer temperatures (65°F days, 55°F nights). Resume fertilizing with balanced blend mixed 1/2-strength. When all danger of frost is past, the plants can be moved outside again for the summer, and the greenhouse temperatures can be raised for plants that will remain in the greenhouse or for germination of new plants for the growing season.

For successful overwintering in the greenhouse keep these tips in mind:

• Begin overwintering by reducing water and fertilizer in late August to late October, depending on Hardness Zone.
• Take care not to allow soil or air to become overly dry.
• Wait until just before the first freezing weather of the season to move plants into the greenhouse.
• During the winter dormant period maintain greenhouse temperatures as close to 45°-55°F as possible.
• Prune plants back in mid-March in preparation for the new growing season.
• After pruning, increase greenhouse temperature to 65°F days, 55°F nights and resume fertilizing with balanced blend mixed 1/2-strength.
• Move plants to desired outdoor locations when all danger of frost has passed. GG

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Dr. Christopher J. Kline is a master gardener and sunflower specialist living in Paradise Valley Arizona. He is also an editor for www.SunflowerOcity.com The Ultimate Sunflower Site has everything imaginable about sunflowers including great information, links to the best products, sites and discussion boards. You can reach Chris at
Chris.Kline@sunflowerOcity.comThis e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it .

How to Build a Small Drip Hydroponics System

by Dr. Chris Kline

Drip hydroponics systems are easy to build and maintain and can be used to grow herbs, tomatoes, peppers or a combination of each.

Things You Need

- Inexpensive plastic pots, one 12 inch, one 10 and one 8 inch.·

- Two-Three plastic 14 inch pot saucers

- Submersible hydroponics water pump (approximately 160GPS)

- Tubing to fit the pump (approximately 3 feet) and one T-connector

- Expanded clay growing medium to fill two smaller pots

- Small air pump with two feet of tubing and air stone

- 100% silicone sealer (small tube)

- Hydroponics grow and bloom nutrients solutions

- pH test kit and pH down (possibly pH up depending on home water chemistry)

Tools

- Drill with 1/8th and 3/4th bits

- Utility knife

Step 1

Seal the hole in the bottom of the largest pot that will serve as the system reservoir. To do this, turn the pot upside down and use 100% silicone sealer to glue a small piece of plastic over the hole. Cut the plastic piece about twice as large as the hole. Any flat thin plastic will do. One easy to find source is to cut these out of clear plastic plant saucers. Next, turn the pot back over and fill the hole inside completely with silicone and even a little extra for a good seal. This should dry 6-8 hours before water is added to the system.

Step 2

Install the pumps and feed tube. Connect the tubing to the submersible hydroponics pump. Generally the tubing will fit tight on the pump spout and a hose clamp is not necessary, but if needed, use a hose clamp to make sure the feed tube stays attached to the pump. Connect the air tube to the air stone. Set the air stone with a rock on top to keep it down and the submersible pump in the bottom of the reservoir.

Step 3

Use 2-3 14 inch saucers for the reservoir lid because one is not strong enough to hold the weight from the growing pots. Set the saucers on top of one another and drill a hole two inches in from the back just large enough to accommodate the feed tube and another just large enough to provide passage for the submersible pump cord and air line. Use a utility knife to cut an opening in the front of the bottom saucer 3×4 inches. This will allow for viewing the reservoir level and adding nutrient solution. Cut a hole ¼ inch smaller all around for the top saucer. Glue the pieces that were cut out of each saucer together and this may be used to cover the opening when not needed. Insert the feed tube back hole and the air tube and submersible pump cord through the back hole. Cover the reservoir pot with the saucers as a lid.

Step 4

The pots should have drain holes in them already. If not, drill drainage holes large enough to allow water to drain through, but smaller than the size of the expanded clay growing medium in both the 8 and 10 inch pots.· Drill a hole in the back large enough to accommodate the feed tube, thread the tube through, and set the 10 inch pot on top of the reservoir lid.

Step 5

Fill the 10 inch pot with expanded clay growing medium to within ½ inch from the top. Thread the feed tube through the hole in the back of the 8 inch pot and set the pot on top of the growing medium in the 10 inch pot. Cut the feed tube at the top of the top pot. Hold the feed tube by one side of the pot and fill the pot with growing medium to a couple inches below the top being careful not to allow any medium to fall into the feed tube.

Step 6

Cut a piece of the water tubing to make a 6 inch circle and connect the ends together with the T connector. Lay this circular hose on a flat surface with the T-connector opening facing up. Drill 1/8th inch holes every half inch around the circle. Connect the T-connector to the feed tube in the top pot and fill the pot the rest of the way so that the drip circle sits on top with medium almost covering.

Step 7

Use a clean bucket or other container to mix nutrient solution. If possible use RO filtered water or some other source of filtered water. Check the pH of the water and adjust accordingly using pH up or down to a level of 6.5. Most often pH will need to be lowered. Add hydroponics grow formula to the water per the manufactures directions. Fill the reservoir with nutrient solution and plug in both the air and water pumps.

Planting

Seeds can be started in small peat pots, peat pellets, or various forms of soil-less seed starting cubes or plugs. The small plants can then be transferred to the unit by burying them with their seed starting medium in the expanded clay medium. With larger plants like tomatoes or peppers this system works well with one in the top growing pot and 2-3 in the lower one. For tomatoes three foot plastic poles can be inserted in the growing pot on either side of each plant for staking. The system can be placed on a covered patio in a sunny location or indoors if grow lights are used.

Maintenance

Start with a full reservoir. When the solution is down to just above the pump, add a gallon of pH adjusted water to the reservoir and run the system for five minutes. Unplug the water pump and disconnect one side of the drip tube from the T-connector and place the end in a large bucket. Plug the pump back in and drain the system until the pump just starts to suck air. Unplug the pump immediately and do not let the pump suck air. Use this water to water soil based plants. Fill the reservoir back to the top with pH adjusted nutrient solution. Use a grow solution until plants begin to flower and then switch to a bloom solution. Reconnect the drip tube to the T-connector and plug the pump back in. Every three months, or sooner if needed, change the air stone and clean the intake components of the submersible pump. After each growing season it is a good idea to rinse the growing medium and spread it out to air dry.

Building a small hydroponics system is a rewarding and productive experience and they certainly add beauty to any garden or indoor setting.

Dr. Christopher J. Kline is a master gardener and writer living in Paradise Valley Arizona. Chris is a member of the Garden Writers Association and a columnist for Garden and Greenhouse Magazine http://www.gardenandgreenhouse.net·

Contact: CKline72@Cox.net

How to Keep Hydroponics Systems from Smelling Bad

by Dr. Chris Kline

One common complaint about hydroponics is the smell that often results, but with a little care and knowledge, a well run hydroponics system doesn’t need to end up becoming a slimy, smelly mess and odor problems can be easily avoided.

Tip #1 – Keep the system as free of organic materials as possible

Nutrient solution problems are often the cause of bad smell in hydroponics systems.

Bad odors can be both strong and persistent and are a result of bacteria metabolizing proteins which releases amines and sulfur containing organic molecules into solution. Microbial growth in the nutrient itself is a result of having organic materials in the system somewhere (fungi etc need organic matter to feed on). Because of this, it is important to avoid introducing unnecessary organic material into the nutrient solution or growing media. Organic matter may have come from large amounts of old rotting root systems or vegetation from a previous crop or use of organic growing media. Take steps to avoid these problems by using non-organic starting medium for starting plants to be added to the system and a non-organic growing medium in the system. Between crops replace or clean the growing medium to remove unwanted organic matter. Use a dark reservoir and keep it covered to keep light and foreign organic matter out.

Tip #2 – Take Steps to Maintain a Microbial Equilibrium in the System

The microbial species which produce the bad smells, slime and other undesirable problems are not to be encouraged, but there are beneficial microbes that can be added and encouraged in the system. First, start with a clean, sterilized water source, add in the nutrients, and then inoculate the nutrient solution with a mixture of beneficial microbes (see product list below). This gives the beneficial microbes a head start and results in a healthy system where any pathogens should be suppressed before plant damage occurs. The following are some well know products that contain beneficial bacteria:

Beneficials Bio-Link PlusTM is organic and contains naturally occurring organisms, beneficial Microbes and Fungi that aid in the natural process of plant growth and development.

Dr Hornby’s Piranha PowderTM and Voodoo JuiceTM.  Voodoo Juice colonizes the root zone with friendly bacteria. Piranha Powder colonizes the root zone with 26 different beneficial fungi. These include 8 species of Trichoderma (which encourage root growth and protect against fungal pathogens) and 18 species of endo and ecto micorrhizal (which help break down nutrients, aid structure and improve uptake).

Ell-Gro Ag-Bact Water PolishTM consists of thirty varietel aerobic (pro-biotics) bacteria. These pro-biotics are cultures in a registered NATA micro-biological laboratory using a recipe compiles by agricultural scientists.

FlourishTM works symbiotically with native microbes to maximize the sub-surface decomposition of organic plant and animal materials and fertilizers making their rich organic nutrients that plants have grown to love almost immediately available.

General Hydroponics SubCulture is a blend of fifty-two soil microorganisms that will increase vitality and yield in all plants. Whether in soil or hydroponics, the proprietary mixed blend of bacteria, actinomycetes and trichoderma fungi colonize in the root zone and media to form a symbiotic relationship with the plant.

Tip #3 – Use Only Nutrients and Additives that are Specifically Designed for Hydroponics

Avoid the use of organic fertilizers which are used and designed for soil based systems. Many of these rely on boosting the population growth of microbes in the soil which in turn break down organic matter, releasing nutrients. Many of the organic compounds are not fully mineralized and putting these soil based organic fertilizers (such as fish emulsions) into a hydroponics system in large quantities can have rapid and unpleasant results.

Tip #4 - Keep the Nutrient Solution Well Oxygenated
Start with a clean system and keep the nutrient well oxygenated. This helps swing the equilibrium in favor of the beneficial microbes and provides oxygenated solution to the plant roots. Air pumps are now very inexpensive and should be used with an air stone to add oxygen to the nutrient solution. Plant only healthy seedlings into the system in non organic starting media and remove any sick or stressed plants as soon as they are noticed, making sure to get most of the roots.

Tip #5 - Flush the System and Replace the Nutrient Solution Often

It is possible to test nutrient solution often and maintain proper pH and nutrient levels, but it is beneficial and much easier to replace the solution every week or at least every two weeks. Set the system up so a water pipe can be easily opened to drain the system. Plan to drain the system when the reservoir is already low. Drain the solution into a watering can until the pump starts to draw air. Use this nutrient rich water to water soil based plants. Add a gallon or two of pH adjusted water to the system and run the system for five minutes to flush. Drain the system again and then fill with pH adjusted nutrient solution and beneficial microbes.

Tip #6 -  Consider Ozone Generators and Carbon Filters

Ozone Generators and Carbon Filters are no substitute for the general hydroponics practices discussed in the previous tips and they may very well be unnecessary for odor control if these tips are diligently applied. They may however have benefits beyond odor control that are worth considering. For example, The Black Max Ozone SystemTM claims to purify the water by injecting ozone directly into the holding tank or the nutrient reservoir. In the water, excess ozone constantly breaks down into oxygen which super oxygenates the nutrient solution, promoting rapid healthy root development, plant growth and higher yields. Carbon Filters are probably the best way of removing odors from any area. Charcoal has long been recognized as one of the best vehicles for air filtering and different size filters are available for different sized growing rooms. Carbon Filters are easy to install and operate.

By consistent application of the above tips a Microbial equilibrium can be created in the hydroponics system that will not only have limited undesirable odors, but will consistently produce better harvests.

Dr. Christopher J. Kline is a master gardener and writer living in Paradise Valley Arizona. Chris is a member of the Garden Writers Association and a columnist for Garden and Greenhouse Magazine http://www.gardenandgreenhouse.net. You can contact him at CKline72@Cox.net

How to Hand Pollinate Indoor Gardens

by Dr. Chris Kline

Some plants need a helping hand for good pollination when grown indoors or in a greenhouse, but it is easier than one may think and you will only need some Q-tips and/or small paint brushes.

Vegetables and other plants can be hand-pollinated by taking a Q-tip or small paint brush and transferring the pollen from the male flower to the female. Male flowers will bear stamens and female will bear pistils (the female always has a small fruit on the end). Make sure to clean the brush or use a new Q-tip when pollinating more than one type of the same plant. Hand pollination is necessary with plants that have a male and female flower like squash, cucumbers etc. This method is needed if growing vegetables indoors or in a controlled environment like a greenhouse.

Some plants need less help than others to pollinate indoors. All that is needed to help pepper and tomato plants is to gently shake the plant every couple of days to advance pollination. Some self pollinators like peas, beans and lettuce do not need any help to pollinate indoors.

Poor production from indoor and outdoor vegetables is often caused by over fertilizing with high nitrogen fertilizers rather than poor pollination. Fertilizers high in nitrogen are desirable during the growth cycle, but once the plants are ready to flower it is important to switch to a fertilizer higher in phosphorus and potassium. These fertilizers generally have the word “bloom” in their name and should have a ratio that favors the last two numbers over the first, a fertilizer with a 1-2-2 ratio, for example.

Dr. Christopher J. Kline is a master gardener and writer living in Paradise Valley Arizona. Chris is a member of the Garden Writers Association and a columnist for Garden and Greenhouse Magazine http://www.gardenandgreenhouse.net. You can contact him at CKline72@Cox.net

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