Hydroponics Q & A Session

by Dr. Chris Kline

Hydroponics continues to make its way into the mainstream, and with this popularity hydroponics specific retailers are finding their way into towns and cities across the country. Fortunately for those who are not lucky enough to have a hydroponics store nearby there are a wide variety of online resources for equipment, supplies and information, but for those with access to these new retail stores they offer community, support and advice as well as a variety of products to choose from.
This article presents an advice filled interview with Justin C. one of the owners of Sea of Green, a growing hydroponics retailer founded in 1992, with two stores in the Phoenix Arizona area and one in Tucson.

Question: What are some of the most commonly asked questions you get about hydroponics for the home gardener?
Answer: “How does hydroponics work” is probably the most common question. It seems like such a strange and misunderstood concept to many people. Hydroponics means growing plants without dirt, all the food for the plants is in the water instead. People think it is a really complicated process, but if you can measure out teaspoons you can probably figure out hydroponics. In Arizona there is also a buzz about wanting to know if you can do hydroponics outside. The answer is yes, however hydroponics is often about control to get optimum growth and so doing hydro outside just takes a little more consideration.
Question: What are the biggest advantages of hydroponics for the greenhouse gardener?
Answer: The biggest advantages are more plants in a much smaller space, ability for total environmental control, no need for toxic pesticides, and speed of growth.
Question: What are some of your favorite hydroponics systems at various price breaks (low, medium and high) and why do you like these systems?
Answer: Bucket systems are the lowest cost and often the most successful units for anyone interested in trying something like a single pepper plant or an assortment of herbs. This system generally consists of a five gallon bucket with a pot insert and a drip collar on top that recirculates water 24 hours a day. The system is easy to setup, requires limited maintenance and is relatively inexpensive. A middle range system would be something more automated like an ebb/flow type system on a timer. This system consists of a reservoir that usually sits underneath the tray supporting the plants. Water floods the tray several times a day, per the timer, and then drains back down to the reservoir. This system is more aggressive then a bucket system and give growers a little more flexibility to grow more then one plant. Aeroponics is the most expensive type system where the roots hang in the air with nothing around the roots except the spray of nutrient solution with a high power pump. This is the super charged system, but this system is the least forgiving. I would never recommend it for the novice, but rather for the experienced hydroponics gardener who wants to get twice the yields in about half the time.
Question: What are some of the biggest mistakes home gardeners make with hydroponics?
Answer: Hydroponics is a skill like anything else and sometimes it is necessary to tinker with a system to get it dialed in for the aggressive growth that is possible with hydroponics. Patience is very important and if anyone sticks with it even a few months they can be very successful. It is also a very experimental hobby and no one person has all the answers. Everyone has a situation that is a little different and everyone’s setup is different.  Besides small errors like pH, or over nutrient levels, people often rely on simple answers from books that don’t account for a grower’s particular situation. Personal experience is the only way to get it right.
Question: Can you give us a few of your favorite tips for home hydroponics?
Answer: Start simple, but don’t overlook all fundamental parts of plant growth including light, CO₂, temperatures, etc. Keeping a grow diary helps to keep track what you did right or wrong. Check pH! Especially if using chemical nutrients over organic nutrients. Organic nutrients are easier to use, but chemical nutrients can give faster growth. And be patient!

Question: What do you see in the future of hydroponics for the home gardener?
Answer: It is taking off as a popular form of gardening with more people getting into it every year. The thing I love the most about this industry is that you are constantly learning new things and the innovations never cease. For the home gardener it is a relatively new concept, maybe 50 years old, or so. But the expansion of the industry is reducing the cost and simplifying the methods so that even novice gardeners will succeed with hydroponics. The growers who come to us at the store are not in one time and that’s it. We build a relationship with our customers and see them coming in every week, year after year, learning from us as we learn from them.
Hopefully the trend towards more local hydroponics retail outlets will continue and this may even push the traditional garden centers to include more resources for indoor, greenhouse and hydroponics gardening. GG

---

Dr. Christopher J. Kline is a master gardener and writer living in Paradise Valley Arizona. He is an editor for The Ultimate Sunflower Site www.SunflowerOcity.com and a columnist for Garden and Greenhouse Magazine www.gardenandgreenhouse.net. You can reach Chris at CKline72@Cox.netThis e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it

Natural Pest Control for the Greenhouse and Garden

By Dr. Chris Kline

Many gardeners would rather use natural products to control pests, but are confused about developing an overall strategy for natural pest control. The best offense is a good defense and the easiest way to prevent insect damage is to discourage them from coming in to the garden in the first place. The following steps will help:

• Avoid Weak Plants - Find a local planting calendar by doing an internet search on the county in questions name and the words “planting calendar”. Make sure to only plant annuals during their proper planting season. This will help to assure healthy plants that can better combat minor infestation. Remove plants that clearly are doing poorly; they may already be infected. If not, they will attract pests. Pull the weak plants and dispose of them away from the garden area, and do not attempt to compost them.
• Build Healthy, Organic Soil - Natural composting methods, mulching and top-dressing your soil with compost or natural fertilizer is the best way to develop strong, vigorous plants. Get an inexpensive soil testing kit and follow the instructions to amend soil pH and other problems as necessary.
• Use Seaweed and Fish Fertilizer - Seaweed contains trace elements such as iron, zinc, barium, calcium, sulfur and magnesium, and fish emulsion contains primary nutrients which promote healthy development in plants. Seaweed and Fish fertilizer are a great organic alternative and will enhance growth and give plants the strength to better withstand disease.
• Clean Gardening Practices - Clean the garden area of debris and weeds which are breeding places for insects. Buy quality mulch and keep a thin layer on top of the soil. The mulch will discourage weeds, keep plant leaves out of the soil and hold in moisture.
• Interplant and Rotate Crops - Insect pests are often plant specific. When plantings are mixed, pests are less likely to spread throughout a crop. It also helps to plant aromatic flowers like marigolds between vegetables to discourage insects and inhibit their spread. Rotating crops each year is a common method to avoid re-infestation of pests which have over-wintered in the ground. In some cases where soil bound pests are abundant it may be necessary to undertake off-season soil sterilization procedures.
• Keep Foliage Dry - Water early so foliage will be dry for most of the day. Wet foliage encourages insect and fungal damage. Trim lower leaves so they are not on the ground and keep mulch around the base of all plants.
• Keep Tools Clean - It is a good idea to clean tools before moving from one garden area to another. This will reduce the speed of invading insects. Clean tools with warm soapy water every couple weeks during the growing season.

Diligent application of these clean gardening practices is the first line of defense. Another beneficial practice for natural pest control is the planting of host plants to attract beneficial insects. Beneficial insects are insects which can be attracted to the garden, or bought from catalogues, which prey on harmful insects or their larvae. These are the most common: Nematodes; Ladybugs; Lacewings; Hover-Flies; Praying Mantis; Brachonids; Chalcids; and Ichneumon Wasps.  The following are plants that can be helpful in attracting beneficial insects: Carrots; Celery; Parsley; Caraway; Queen Anne’s lace; Daisies; Tansy; Yarrow; Goldenrod; Black-Eyed Susans; and Asters. By creating a great host environment some beneficial insects will show up, but to help Mother Nature they are also available from online sources like www.naturescontrol.com.
When beneficial insects are being used to combat pests in the garden, even natural pesticides should be used sparingly and only on infected plants because they will have an adverse impact on the beneficial insects as well as the unwanted ones. Many natural sprays for a variety of pest problems can be made at home and complete lists of various recipes for different problems can be found online. One great source can be found at the following link: www.realmama.org/archives-spring-2006/kitchentogarden.php
Although, some homemade sprays work quite well on particular pests, some natural commercial sprays that are now on the market offer perhaps a more comprehensive and convenient solution. One such recent product introduction is Ed Rosenthal’s Zero Tolerance Herbal Pesticide-Fungicide. It is refreshing to find a natural product that actually does what it says and smells great as well. Zero Tolerance is made of pure food ingredients and is bio-degradable and environmentally safe. It is effective at controlling spider mites, aphids, whiteflies, thrips, ants, caterpillars, gnats, root aphids, mealy bugs, and scale, as well as powdery mildew, and gray and white mold. Information on Zero Tolerance can be found at www.z-tolerance.com

By applying these natural pest control techniques it is possible to stay one step ahead of the pests and be ready for them when they arrive. GG

---

Dr. Christopher J. Kline is a master gardener and writer living in Paradise Valley Arizona. He is an editor for The Ultimate Sunflower Site http://www.SunflowerOcity.com , a columnist for Garden and Greenhouse Magazine http://www.gardenandgreenhouse.net and an owner of Greenhouse and Garden Supply http://greenhouseandgardensupply.com . You can reach Chris at CKline72@Cox.net

Overwintering in the Greenhouse

By Dr. Chris Kline

Many gardeners seem to shut down operations in the winter entirely and start completely anew each season. With proper overwintering techniques, which are made much easier with the use of a greenhouse, many plants can be preserved only to be more vigorous beautiful producers the next season. In addition to perennial flowers and ornamentals most berries including Black, Blue and Raspberries can be grown for more than one season as can most herbs including Basil, Chives and Parsley. Several vegetables are also perennials including Asparagus, Garlic, Shallots, Sweet Beets, Sweet Potato and many Peppers.

There are some distinct advantages to using a greenhouse for overwintering. In many areas rodents can be a significant source of damage to plants during the winter months when other food is scarce. Another major cause of damage and loss of plants during winter is caused by freezing and fluctuations in soil temperature, and this is an even bigger problem for plants in containers. Plants out in the open also often sustain tissue burn from the moisture loss caused by cold dry air. Proper overwintering in a greenhouse makes it much easier to protect against these and other winter hazards to plants.

It is possible to keep many plants from one year to the next. They will not continue to bloom profusely and grow  over winter as they did during the summer, but in many cases they will have better production than they did in year one and will give the gardener a great head start on the next season.

Depending upon the climate, late August (Hardness zones 3-6) to late September (Hardness zones 7-8) is generally the window for beginning the overwintering process. In most areas it is practically impossible to keep plants thriving and producing outside past October. The low sun and shorter days tend to induce ‘semi-dormancy’, a period of reduced functioning in the plants. For this reason the beginning of the overwintering program will start by gradually tapering off watering and fertilization in October. In the winter the soil should not become bone dry or dusty, but should be watered only occasionally during the plant’s dormancy.

It is best to hold off on moving plants into the greenhouse until just before the first freeze of winter sets in. Moving the plants inside too early will slow down the hardening off process and may result in undesirable out of season growth.

Once plants are in the greenhouse temperature control is very important to overwintering success. Temperatures of 45°55°F are ideal. The higher the temperatures above this range, the more likely the plants will produce weak growth out of season which can make them susceptible to various infestations. Greenhouse temperatures can generally be controlled using ventilation during the day to keep the greenhouse from overheating. In very cold climates a heat source may be necessary to keep the temperature close to the ideal range, particularly at night.

Most plants will benefit from some pruning back in mid-March in preparation for the vigorous growth during the new season. This is also a good time to consider transplanting plants that grew a lot during the past summer into the garden or larger containers. Plants adjust best to gradual change. At this time, the greenhouse can be allowed to reach slightly warmer temperatures (65°F days, 55°F nights). Resume fertilizing with balanced blend mixed 1/2-strength. When all danger of frost is past, the plants can be moved outside again for the summer, and the greenhouse temperatures can be raised for plants that will remain in the greenhouse or for germination of new plants for the growing season.

For successful overwintering in the greenhouse keep these tips in mind:

• Begin overwintering by reducing water and fertilizer in late August to late October, depending on Hardness Zone.
• Take care not to allow soil or air to become overly dry.
• Wait until just before the first freezing weather of the season to move plants into the greenhouse.
• During the winter dormant period maintain greenhouse temperatures as close to 45°-55°F as possible.
• Prune plants back in mid-March in preparation for the new growing season.
• After pruning, increase greenhouse temperature to 65°F days, 55°F nights and resume fertilizing with balanced blend mixed 1/2-strength.
• Move plants to desired outdoor locations when all danger of frost has passed. GG

---

Dr. Christopher J. Kline is a master gardener and sunflower specialist living in Paradise Valley Arizona. He is also an editor for www.SunflowerOcity.com The Ultimate Sunflower Site has everything imaginable about sunflowers including great information, links to the best products, sites and discussion boards. You can reach Chris at
Chris.Kline@sunflowerOcity.comThis e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it .

How to Build a Small Drip Hydroponics System

by Dr. Chris Kline

Drip hydroponics systems are easy to build and maintain and can be used to grow herbs, tomatoes, peppers or a combination of each.

Things You Need

- Inexpensive plastic pots, one 12 inch, one 10 and one 8 inch.·

- Two-Three plastic 14 inch pot saucers

- Submersible hydroponics water pump (approximately 160GPS)

- Tubing to fit the pump (approximately 3 feet) and one T-connector

- Expanded clay growing medium to fill two smaller pots

- Small air pump with two feet of tubing and air stone

- 100% silicone sealer (small tube)

- Hydroponics grow and bloom nutrients solutions

- pH test kit and pH down (possibly pH up depending on home water chemistry)

Tools

- Drill with 1/8th and 3/4th bits

- Utility knife

Step 1

Seal the hole in the bottom of the largest pot that will serve as the system reservoir. To do this, turn the pot upside down and use 100% silicone sealer to glue a small piece of plastic over the hole. Cut the plastic piece about twice as large as the hole. Any flat thin plastic will do. One easy to find source is to cut these out of clear plastic plant saucers. Next, turn the pot back over and fill the hole inside completely with silicone and even a little extra for a good seal. This should dry 6-8 hours before water is added to the system.

Step 2

Install the pumps and feed tube. Connect the tubing to the submersible hydroponics pump. Generally the tubing will fit tight on the pump spout and a hose clamp is not necessary, but if needed, use a hose clamp to make sure the feed tube stays attached to the pump. Connect the air tube to the air stone. Set the air stone with a rock on top to keep it down and the submersible pump in the bottom of the reservoir.

Step 3

Use 2-3 14 inch saucers for the reservoir lid because one is not strong enough to hold the weight from the growing pots. Set the saucers on top of one another and drill a hole two inches in from the back just large enough to accommodate the feed tube and another just large enough to provide passage for the submersible pump cord and air line. Use a utility knife to cut an opening in the front of the bottom saucer 3×4 inches. This will allow for viewing the reservoir level and adding nutrient solution. Cut a hole ¼ inch smaller all around for the top saucer. Glue the pieces that were cut out of each saucer together and this may be used to cover the opening when not needed. Insert the feed tube back hole and the air tube and submersible pump cord through the back hole. Cover the reservoir pot with the saucers as a lid.

Step 4

The pots should have drain holes in them already. If not, drill drainage holes large enough to allow water to drain through, but smaller than the size of the expanded clay growing medium in both the 8 and 10 inch pots.· Drill a hole in the back large enough to accommodate the feed tube, thread the tube through, and set the 10 inch pot on top of the reservoir lid.

Step 5

Fill the 10 inch pot with expanded clay growing medium to within ½ inch from the top. Thread the feed tube through the hole in the back of the 8 inch pot and set the pot on top of the growing medium in the 10 inch pot. Cut the feed tube at the top of the top pot. Hold the feed tube by one side of the pot and fill the pot with growing medium to a couple inches below the top being careful not to allow any medium to fall into the feed tube.

Step 6

Cut a piece of the water tubing to make a 6 inch circle and connect the ends together with the T connector. Lay this circular hose on a flat surface with the T-connector opening facing up. Drill 1/8th inch holes every half inch around the circle. Connect the T-connector to the feed tube in the top pot and fill the pot the rest of the way so that the drip circle sits on top with medium almost covering.

Step 7

Use a clean bucket or other container to mix nutrient solution. If possible use RO filtered water or some other source of filtered water. Check the pH of the water and adjust accordingly using pH up or down to a level of 6.5. Most often pH will need to be lowered. Add hydroponics grow formula to the water per the manufactures directions. Fill the reservoir with nutrient solution and plug in both the air and water pumps.

Planting

Seeds can be started in small peat pots, peat pellets, or various forms of soil-less seed starting cubes or plugs. The small plants can then be transferred to the unit by burying them with their seed starting medium in the expanded clay medium. With larger plants like tomatoes or peppers this system works well with one in the top growing pot and 2-3 in the lower one. For tomatoes three foot plastic poles can be inserted in the growing pot on either side of each plant for staking. The system can be placed on a covered patio in a sunny location or indoors if grow lights are used.

Maintenance

Start with a full reservoir. When the solution is down to just above the pump, add a gallon of pH adjusted water to the reservoir and run the system for five minutes. Unplug the water pump and disconnect one side of the drip tube from the T-connector and place the end in a large bucket. Plug the pump back in and drain the system until the pump just starts to suck air. Unplug the pump immediately and do not let the pump suck air. Use this water to water soil based plants. Fill the reservoir back to the top with pH adjusted nutrient solution. Use a grow solution until plants begin to flower and then switch to a bloom solution. Reconnect the drip tube to the T-connector and plug the pump back in. Every three months, or sooner if needed, change the air stone and clean the intake components of the submersible pump. After each growing season it is a good idea to rinse the growing medium and spread it out to air dry.

Building a small hydroponics system is a rewarding and productive experience and they certainly add beauty to any garden or indoor setting.

Dr. Christopher J. Kline is a master gardener and writer living in Paradise Valley Arizona. Chris is a member of the Garden Writers Association and a columnist for Garden and Greenhouse Magazine http://www.gardenandgreenhouse.net·

Contact: CKline72@Cox.net

How to Keep Hydroponics Systems from Smelling Bad

by Dr. Chris Kline

One common complaint about hydroponics is the smell that often results, but with a little care and knowledge, a well run hydroponics system doesn’t need to end up becoming a slimy, smelly mess and odor problems can be easily avoided.

Tip #1 – Keep the system as free of organic materials as possible

Nutrient solution problems are often the cause of bad smell in hydroponics systems.

Bad odors can be both strong and persistent and are a result of bacteria metabolizing proteins which releases amines and sulfur containing organic molecules into solution. Microbial growth in the nutrient itself is a result of having organic materials in the system somewhere (fungi etc need organic matter to feed on). Because of this, it is important to avoid introducing unnecessary organic material into the nutrient solution or growing media. Organic matter may have come from large amounts of old rotting root systems or vegetation from a previous crop or use of organic growing media. Take steps to avoid these problems by using non-organic starting medium for starting plants to be added to the system and a non-organic growing medium in the system. Between crops replace or clean the growing medium to remove unwanted organic matter. Use a dark reservoir and keep it covered to keep light and foreign organic matter out.

Tip #2 – Take Steps to Maintain a Microbial Equilibrium in the System

The microbial species which produce the bad smells, slime and other undesirable problems are not to be encouraged, but there are beneficial microbes that can be added and encouraged in the system. First, start with a clean, sterilized water source, add in the nutrients, and then inoculate the nutrient solution with a mixture of beneficial microbes (see product list below). This gives the beneficial microbes a head start and results in a healthy system where any pathogens should be suppressed before plant damage occurs. The following are some well know products that contain beneficial bacteria:

Beneficials Bio-Link PlusTM is organic and contains naturally occurring organisms, beneficial Microbes and Fungi that aid in the natural process of plant growth and development.

Dr Hornby’s Piranha PowderTM and Voodoo JuiceTM.  Voodoo Juice colonizes the root zone with friendly bacteria. Piranha Powder colonizes the root zone with 26 different beneficial fungi. These include 8 species of Trichoderma (which encourage root growth and protect against fungal pathogens) and 18 species of endo and ecto micorrhizal (which help break down nutrients, aid structure and improve uptake).

Ell-Gro Ag-Bact Water PolishTM consists of thirty varietel aerobic (pro-biotics) bacteria. These pro-biotics are cultures in a registered NATA micro-biological laboratory using a recipe compiles by agricultural scientists.

FlourishTM works symbiotically with native microbes to maximize the sub-surface decomposition of organic plant and animal materials and fertilizers making their rich organic nutrients that plants have grown to love almost immediately available.

General Hydroponics SubCulture is a blend of fifty-two soil microorganisms that will increase vitality and yield in all plants. Whether in soil or hydroponics, the proprietary mixed blend of bacteria, actinomycetes and trichoderma fungi colonize in the root zone and media to form a symbiotic relationship with the plant.

Tip #3 – Use Only Nutrients and Additives that are Specifically Designed for Hydroponics

Avoid the use of organic fertilizers which are used and designed for soil based systems. Many of these rely on boosting the population growth of microbes in the soil which in turn break down organic matter, releasing nutrients. Many of the organic compounds are not fully mineralized and putting these soil based organic fertilizers (such as fish emulsions) into a hydroponics system in large quantities can have rapid and unpleasant results.

Tip #4 - Keep the Nutrient Solution Well Oxygenated
Start with a clean system and keep the nutrient well oxygenated. This helps swing the equilibrium in favor of the beneficial microbes and provides oxygenated solution to the plant roots. Air pumps are now very inexpensive and should be used with an air stone to add oxygen to the nutrient solution. Plant only healthy seedlings into the system in non organic starting media and remove any sick or stressed plants as soon as they are noticed, making sure to get most of the roots.

Tip #5 - Flush the System and Replace the Nutrient Solution Often

It is possible to test nutrient solution often and maintain proper pH and nutrient levels, but it is beneficial and much easier to replace the solution every week or at least every two weeks. Set the system up so a water pipe can be easily opened to drain the system. Plan to drain the system when the reservoir is already low. Drain the solution into a watering can until the pump starts to draw air. Use this nutrient rich water to water soil based plants. Add a gallon or two of pH adjusted water to the system and run the system for five minutes to flush. Drain the system again and then fill with pH adjusted nutrient solution and beneficial microbes.

Tip #6 -  Consider Ozone Generators and Carbon Filters

Ozone Generators and Carbon Filters are no substitute for the general hydroponics practices discussed in the previous tips and they may very well be unnecessary for odor control if these tips are diligently applied. They may however have benefits beyond odor control that are worth considering. For example, The Black Max Ozone SystemTM claims to purify the water by injecting ozone directly into the holding tank or the nutrient reservoir. In the water, excess ozone constantly breaks down into oxygen which super oxygenates the nutrient solution, promoting rapid healthy root development, plant growth and higher yields. Carbon Filters are probably the best way of removing odors from any area. Charcoal has long been recognized as one of the best vehicles for air filtering and different size filters are available for different sized growing rooms. Carbon Filters are easy to install and operate.

By consistent application of the above tips a Microbial equilibrium can be created in the hydroponics system that will not only have limited undesirable odors, but will consistently produce better harvests.

Dr. Christopher J. Kline is a master gardener and writer living in Paradise Valley Arizona. Chris is a member of the Garden Writers Association and a columnist for Garden and Greenhouse Magazine http://www.gardenandgreenhouse.net. You can contact him at CKline72@Cox.net

How to Hand Pollinate Indoor Gardens

by Dr. Chris Kline

Some plants need a helping hand for good pollination when grown indoors or in a greenhouse, but it is easier than one may think and you will only need some Q-tips and/or small paint brushes.

Vegetables and other plants can be hand-pollinated by taking a Q-tip or small paint brush and transferring the pollen from the male flower to the female. Male flowers will bear stamens and female will bear pistils (the female always has a small fruit on the end). Make sure to clean the brush or use a new Q-tip when pollinating more than one type of the same plant. Hand pollination is necessary with plants that have a male and female flower like squash, cucumbers etc. This method is needed if growing vegetables indoors or in a controlled environment like a greenhouse.

Some plants need less help than others to pollinate indoors. All that is needed to help pepper and tomato plants is to gently shake the plant every couple of days to advance pollination. Some self pollinators like peas, beans and lettuce do not need any help to pollinate indoors.

Poor production from indoor and outdoor vegetables is often caused by over fertilizing with high nitrogen fertilizers rather than poor pollination. Fertilizers high in nitrogen are desirable during the growth cycle, but once the plants are ready to flower it is important to switch to a fertilizer higher in phosphorus and potassium. These fertilizers generally have the word “bloom” in their name and should have a ratio that favors the last two numbers over the first, a fertilizer with a 1-2-2 ratio, for example.

Dr. Christopher J. Kline is a master gardener and writer living in Paradise Valley Arizona. Chris is a member of the Garden Writers Association and a columnist for Garden and Greenhouse Magazine http://www.gardenandgreenhouse.net. You can contact him at CKline72@Cox.net

Hydroponics Growing Medium - Getting Down to the Nitty Gritty

by Dr. Chris Kline

Growing medium is anything that a plant can grow in, and dozens, if not hundreds of forms exist. This article will focus on various popular forms of growing medium that are suitable for use in hydroponics or plant starting and will introduce a very promising relatively new medium. It is important to understand that it is difficult to select one best medium for all purposes. Commonly used growth mediums each have advantages and disadvantages and may even be combined to form a more perfect growing environment.

Functions of Growing Medium

Growing mediums provide support both physically and biologically. Physical support is provided by allowing the plant to grow its roots through the medium to hold itself in place. Biological support is provided by the medium’s ability to hold nutrients, water and air that the plant needs and its ability to release carbon dioxide. In soil based gardens, the medium (soil) also supports other types of life. Microorganisms and insects live in the soil and they in turn aid plant life by helping to decay organic material, adding structure and nutrients to the soil. Each commonly used growing medium has advantages and disadvantages and may be more suitable for use in one hydroponics system than another.

Soiless Mix

Most of the time products sold as “potting soil” are really not soil at all. They are soilless mixes containing a varied assortment of ingredients. The most commonly found components are Sphagnum moss, Perlite and Vermiculite. Unlike most hydroponics growing medium, soilless mixes are usually considered organic and are frequently used for container gardening, wick systems and non-recovery drip systems. Most of these mixes have some very fine particles that can clog pumps and drip emitters making them unsuitable for recovery systems. The best soilless mixes have great wicking action and retain water and air well, making them suitable for semi-hydroponics methods and container gardening.

Coconut Fiber

Coconut fiber has become a very popular growing medium, and for good reason. For those looking for a totally “organic” growing medium that offers top performance in hydroponics systems, coconut fiber may be the best choice. Compared to rockwool (discussed below) it maintains a larger oxygen capacity and has superior water holding ability which is a real advantage for hydroponics systems that have intermittent watering cycles. Unlike most synthetic mediums, coconut fiber is believed to be high in root stimulating hormones and offers some protection against root diseases including fungus infestation. A common formula popularized by Dutch growers consists of a mixture of 50% coconut fiber and 50% expanded clay pellets. This mixture is particularly suitable for continuous drip systems where water holding ability is not as big a concern and more oxygen holding capacity is desired. There is some concern that all coconut fiber products are not created equally, so care should be taken to purchase a premium blend.

Perlite and Vermiculite

Perlite is often used as an additive to soilless mixes or soil to increase aeration and drainage and may be used by itself in continuous flow hydroponics systems. Because it does not retain water well, it is often combined in a 50/50 mixture with vermiculite. Unlike perlite, vermiculite retains water well, perhaps too well to be used by itself. Both vermiculite and perlite are inexpensive, and combining the two makes a very popular and effective medium for drip and ebb and flow systems. Vermiculite and perlite must be rinsed thoroughly before use and care should be taken not to inhale the dust as it is hazardous to ones health. It is important to buy horticultural grade products, as those produced for other purposes often do not have a stable PH and will make maintaining proper pH in the system very difficult.

Expanded Clay

This product has several nick names including: hydro corns and grow rocks and is an extremely good growing medium. The pellets are great for ebb & flow systems or other systems that have frequent watering cycles. Expanded clay dos not retain much water so it works best in continuous flow systems or mixed with other mediums to increase water retention. One drawback is that expanded clay pellets are rather expensive, but fortunately they are one of the few kinds of growing medium that are easily reusable. Between crops they can be recycled by removing all the old roots and then sterilizing with a 10% bleach and water mix.

Rockwool

Rockwool is one of the most popular growing mediums. It was developed for gardening in Denmark and is used extensively for continuous drip hydroponics systems. Rockwool comes in many shapes from one inch starter cubes to large three foot slabs which make it quite a very versatile growing medium. Rockwool holds water well and unless it is sitting directly in water it holds enough air to supply roots with plenty of oxygen. Rockwool has a few notable disadvantages. Like perlite and vermiculite the dust is hazardous if inhaled. It also must be pre-soaked for 24 hours prior to use. Perhaps the most notable problem is that rockwool has a high pH which requires that the nutrient solution pH be lowered more often to maintain correct growing pH levels.

Sure To Grow MediaTM

Sure to grow media is a relative newcomer that was patented in the late 90’s. It resembles some kind of cloth or foam material that could be used for quilting or crafting, but make no mistake about it; this is a serious growing medium. One of the greatest advantages of Sure to Grow Media is that it comes in a variety of shapes and sizes and if needed it can be cut to fit any application. It was designed for ease of use for hobbyists, but is also finding favor among commercial growers seeking the efficiencies that it provides, because in the plant business, a more efficient grower is a more profitable grower. There is virtually no setup time. It wets instantly, has great aeration and water retention, is pH neutral and sterile, clean and hygienic. For larger growing operations this product offers a marked advantage over most other mediums as it can be rolled out into any size gutter system and rolled back up for change out between crops. After using this medium along with others it is hard not to come back for more, as it just makes setting up a hydroponics system so effortless compared to most other growing mediums, and this same advantage is enjoyed again when it comes time for crop changeover. For information on Sure To Grow products visit www.suretogrow.com.

Dr. Christopher J. Kline is a master gardener and writer living in Paradise Valley Arizona. Chris is a member of the Garden Writers Association and a columnist for Garden and Greenhouse Magazine http://www.gardenandgreenhouse.net. You can contact him at CKline72@Cox.net

Seafood For Your Plants

Natures Wonder Fertilizer

by Dr. Chris Kline

This article takes a look at the benefits of fish based fertilizers as a great organic plant feeding alternative. As with any fertilizer it is important to understand the components of the fertilizer so that brands can be compared and the proper blend can be chosen and applied in the correct strength for various garden applications.

Some of the advantages and benefits of fish based fertilizers are:

1. Fewer applications are needed
2. Lower burn potential than chemical fertilizers
3. Comparatively slow release rate
4. Less leaching from the soil

All fertilizers, fish fertilizer included, are labeled with three numbers that represent the primary nutrients that plants need: nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium. They are always listed as a percentage of those nutrients and always in that order. For example, a 4-1-2 fertilizer contains 4 percent, by weight, nitrogen, 1 percent phosphorous and 2 percent potassium. These can occur in different ratios and combinations, but they all represent the strength or concentration of the fertilizer. So an 8-2-4 would be twice as concentrated as a 4-1-2. This is important when comparing prices because it would take twice as much of the second fertilizer to equal the same amount of nutrient as the first.  Next, it is important to understand what the three primary nutrients do. Nitrogen is very important in plants for good foliage growth and dark green color. Phosphorous is important for rooting and also for blooming, and potassium is important for cold hardiness and plays a role in fruiting and blooming. It is possible to use a balanced fertilizer, one where the three numbers are equal or close to one another (15-15-15), throughout the growing cycle. A better plan is to look for a fertilizer brand that has at least two formulas to accommodate different stages in the plants growing cycle and/or different varieties of plants. For vegetables grown mostly for their leaves (salad or other greens) a fertilizer with more nitrogen than anything else (a higher first number) is best. For vegetables that flower first like peppers and tomatoes, a fertilizer with a higher proportion of phosphorus (a higher middle number) works well. Alternatively, some gardeners produce great results by using a high growth (high nitrogen) formula for the beginning of the growth cycle and then switch to a high bloom (high phosphorus) fertilizer when the plants begin to flower.

The three primary macronutrients have been discussed, but what about the other micronutrients that plants need to stay healthy. Fortunately the better fish fertilizer companies have added other wonderful products from the sea that complement the quality macro nutrients from the fish emulsion with a solid addition of micro nutrients. These additives are generally in for form of liquefied kelp and/or seaweed. It is a good idea to look for a brand of fish fertilizer that includes either, or both of these additives.

For added insurance from the sea, crab meal is one of the only options for a time release fertilizer that may be mixed with soil before planting or mixed in the topsoil after planting. It has the added benefit of being a great source of calcium which is critically important to avoid troubles like blossom end rot, particularly when using a high nitrogen fertilizer regime. Fertilizing every 2-3 weeks with a quality fish based fertilizer is a solid feeding plan for the organic garden. Below are three brands that are hard to beat.

Age Old carries an organic Fish/Seaweed Blend Fertilizer (3-3-2) that is a blend of processed fish hydro slates and North Atlantic sea kelp, loaded with macronutrients and bio-stimulants, it is an effective plant stress reducer and root stimulant that is rich in carbohydrates. Age Old also carries fish based fertilizers in growth (12-6-6) and bloom (5-10-5) formulations both contain fish solubles, feather meal & colloidal phosphates. Micronutrients are derived from seaweed extracts, borax and complex sugars. Both Age Old Grow and Bloom may be used in hydroponics systems.

Neptune’s Harvest carries an organic Fish/Seaweed Blend Fertilizer (2-3-1) containing blend of fish hydrolysate and seaweed plus a unique blend of micronutrients from a very special kelp extract. In addition to fish and fish/seaweed blend fertilizer, Neptune’s harvest also carries crab shell and kelp meal.

Sea Pal carries great fish based products with kelp and other nutrients. They also have a great selection of blends for planting, growth and bloom including, (3-1-1), (2,3,3), (6-3-3) and (2,10,10). For hydroponics systems, Sea Pal carries a full complement of fish based products that have been run through a 50 micron filter to ensure smooth flow in all types of hydroponic and aeroponic units.

Dr. Christopher J. Kline is a master gardener and writer living in Paradise Valley Arizona. Chris is a member of the Garden Writers Association and a columnist for Garden and Greenhouse Magazine http://www.gardenandgreenhouse.net/ Contact: CKline72@Cox.net

Greenhouse Space Saving Techniques

by Dr. Chris Kline

With a little garden space planning, it is possible to drastically increase the productivity and enjoyment of a greenhouse garden. Like with any great structure, one can start from the foundation and work up to the top to make sure each area complements the others and is an efficient use of the space.

Going Underground

If a greenhouse is on a deck or already has permanent flooring, it may not be possible to take advantage of some great underground space. If at all possible, there are many advantages to having a “flexible” greenhouse floor. To start with, some area of floor that is not covered can allow for cultivation of the soil or the addition of a perfectly blended soil mix to grow plants at the ground level. This will result in an automatic space saving because the roots of the plants are occupying space below the greenhouse floor level that otherwise would be wasted. All that is generally necessary for walking and working in the greenhouse is to leave a three to four foot corridor down the middle and the rest of the floor area can be planted. But even this center corridor can be a door to an underground gardening powerhouse.

The Underground Greenhouse Engine

One of the best ways to turn a greenhouse into a full scale organic gardening machine is to convert the center corridor into an underground composting and/or vermiculture center, and it is quite easy to do. Simply dig a trench three to four feet wide and two to three feet deep in the center of the greenhouse from end to end. Stack a brick barrier on the sides and ends and cover with strong plywood sections. The plywood makes a nice greenhouse floor for walking through and tending plants. Sections of the plywood can be lifted to reveal the perfect cool damp environment for composting and/or vermiculture and a dry box section can be included for garden supply storage.

Hydroponics and the Underground

Any discussion of greenhouse space saving techniques would be incomplete without some mention of hydroponics. Hydroponics presents a level of control and efficiency that is geared toward productivity and getting the most out of available space. Underground is the perfect place to put nutrient reservoirs. Many hydroponics systems require the reservoir to be below the plant growing medium and below ground reservoirs allow the plant grow beds to be as low as ground level. They do not take up space in the greenhouse and keep the nutrient solution cooler in summer and warmer in winter.

Using Floor Space Wisely

With a few cautions in mind, the stacking plant growing space with tiered benches or shelves can add greatly to productivity. It is important to consider how the shelves and plants themselves will shade other plants from light. Just as tall plants are generally positioned in the back of the garden so they will not shade shorter plants, it is important to observe the path of the sun in relationship to the greenhouse placement and plant accordingly. Place tall shelving and plants where they will not block too much light from other areas of the greenhouse. Shelves and racks are best made of mesh or screen construction which allows light, air and moisture to pass more easily. Always try to buy adjustable shelving. It is much more versatile and allows for spacing shelves based on the requirements of each crop.  Specially designed triangular shelves are also available for the corners of the greenhouse to take advantage of what is often dead space. One last note on shelving, and just about anything else that is placed in the greenhouse, light colors are best because they reflect light allowing more of it to be absorbed by the plants.

Using Lights to Increase Productivity

As mentioned above, it is best to position benches, shelving and plants to take the best advantage of the natural light that is available to the greenhouse. That said it is possible to lengthen the growing season, volume of plants that can be grown and productivity with the use of artificial lights. T5 Fluorescent lights have several advantages for greenhouse space saving. They do not require large bulky external ballasts, and are very low profile and can be attached to the bottom of a shelf to provide light to the plants on the next shelf down. Just be sure to have proper channeling for moisture from the plants above. Bulbs are available in warm, cool and full spectrum and they produce very little heat allowing them to be positioned quite close to growing plants. They are available in 48 inch long 2, 4, 6 and 8 tube models that are perfect for any width shelf.

Using Space Saving Hydroponics Towers

Hydroponics towers are a growing innovation that is hard to ignore when it comes to getting the most from each square foot. These systems stack growing containers in clever configurations so that plants still get light, but are vertically stacked to save ground space. Several different varieties are available to suit almost any greenhouse application.

Air Space

Last, but not least, because of their clear ceilings, greenhouses offer even more space for hanging plants. Once the floor and wall spaces have been planted, consider where hanging plants may work best without robbing too much light from other plants. As with shelves and other vertical plantings, it is important to study the path of the sun and shade in the greenhouse to determine where best to place hanging plants so the shade they provide is an asset not a determent to the greenhouse as a whole. This may be quite different depending on the season. In the summer, sun loving hanging plants may provide welcome shade when placed properly in the greenhouse. In the winter, they may need to be avoided entirely depending on the overall light requirements of the particular greenhouse application. Upside down tomato growers have also become popular for growing tomatoes and other plants hanging upside down and may make welcome space saving additions to the greenhouse.

It may perhaps be a habit from traditional outdoor gardening to look at the garden space as one dimensional and plan accordingly. A better approach is to take into consideration each level and surface from floor to sealing and how it will interact with the greenhouse as a whole. By taking a three dimensional view and planning the greenhouse garden from the floor up a better, more productive garden is within reach.

Dr. Christopher J. Kline is a master gardener and writer living in Paradise Valley Arizona. Chris is a member of the Garden Writers Association and a columnist for Garden and Greenhouse Magazine http://www.gardenandgreenhouse.net. You can contact him at CKline72@Cox.net

Solving and Preventing Garden Fungi Problems Naturally

by Dr. Chris Kline

What are Fungi

Fungi are interesting in that they are neither plants nor animals and have their own classification. The main distinction lies in how they feed. Plants make their own food using chlorophyll, sunlight, water, and carbon dioxide. Animals eat and digest food, but fungi neither produce nor eat food. They absorb food by sending parts of their body called hyphae directly into the food where they secrete chemicals that break down the food into a form that they can them absorb back directly into their cells. Unfortunately many undesirable fungi damage plants by absorbing food and water from their hosts.

Fungi are not all bad, and many underground fungi serve important functions, helping plant roots to absorb water and nutrients. Beneficial fungi are also responsible for breaking down the organic matter in soil and compost heaps into usable plant nutrients. Unfortunately harmful fungi also cause most of the diseases likely to be found in the home garden. Many of these fungi reproduce through spores that are blown by the wind making them quite mobile from plant to plant. Other fungi can survive for years in infected soil only to become active again once a host plant is available. Fortunately there are effective forms of treatment for most fungal plant problems.

Steps to Avoid Fungal Disease

Even most chemical treatments for fungus are most effective as preventative measures, rather than fungal treatments, and full blown fungus problems can be difficult to fix. Several steps should be taken to prevent fungal disease:

• Properly space plants when starting the garden to allow for good air circulation and use fans for circulation in greenhouses.
• If a particular garden location has had fungus problems in the past, consider taking steps to amend the soil (described below) before planting.
• Wash and disinfect planting containers before replanting. A 10% bleach and water solution may be used for disinfecting.
• Apply fresh mulch around the base of plants each growing season. Straw works quite well because it is slow to decompose and dries quickly.
• Trim lower leaves of plants to keep them off the ground.
• Water around the base of plants and avoid wetting the leaves.
• While treating infected plants, rake and remove fallen leaves and do not add these to the compost pile.
• In container gardening, move infected plants to a location away from others while treating, and treat the plants in proximity as a preventative measure.

Cornmeal as an Organic Fungicide

Perhaps the best preventative weapon against fungus is common corn meal, and since it is entirely organic, it can be used on edible crops. Cornmeal contains beneficial organisms which are believed to be at least as effective as common chemical fungicides. The interesting thing is how cornmeal works its magic. Cornmeal attracts a good fungus that goes to work in the garden to kill off disease causing fungi. The best way to use cornmeal as a fungi preventative is to work it into the soil at a rate of two pounds for every 100 square feet. This method of application has the added benefit of adding nutrients to the soil.  A cornmeal spray can also be made by soaking one cup of cornmeal in a gallon of water overnight and straining. Food grade cornmeal can be bought at any grocery, but it is much more economical to buy horticultural cornmeal in bulk from local livestock feed stores. One possible source for purchasing corn meal is http://www.soilmender.com/.

Sulfur

Sulfur is commonly used as a fungicide and insecticide. Sulfur can be applied in either dust or spray form, but spray may be the best option because the dust can irritate both eyes and lungs.  As with all foliar sprays, it is best to apply sulfur spray in the morning or evening when the sun is less intense and temperatures are lower to avoid burning leaf surfaces. When using as a preventative measure or as a treatment for diseased plants, sulfur and most other sprays should be used at ten day intervals. Care should also be taken to wet both the top and underside of leaves.

Two popular commercial sulfur sprays:

Safer Garden Fungicide

It comes in a ready to use spray containing .40% elemental sulfur and a concentrate which contains 12%. It is effective at controlling fungal diseases including powdery mildew, rust, scab, brown rot, rose black spot and more on fruits, vegetables and flowers.  Even better, it is OMRI listed for use in organic production. Visit www.arbico-organics.com.

Bonide® Lime Sulfur Spray

This is a combination insecticide and fungicide for use on fruit trees, shade trees, shrubs, roses and berries. Bonide has several effective fungicidal products and information on each can be found at their website: http://www.bonide.com/.

Milk Spray

Is safe and can be particularly effective at treating powdery mildews, downy mildews, scab, and rust. Mix whole milk into a 50:50 solution with water and spray infected plants at 10 day intervals.

Triple Threat SOS Spray – Soda, Oil and Soap

A very effective fungicidal treatment can be made with three common products from the grocery store. To one gallon of water, add one table spoon each of baking soda, vegetable oil (or horticultural oil) and natural dish soap (or insecticidal soap). Many gardeners have been using store bought natural dish soap for years and swear by it and others feel there are advantages to using insecticidal soap available from garden centers. The same goes for vegetable oil verses horticultural oil from garden centers.

Neem Oil

Neem is a natural extract from the Neem Tree that has a broad spectrum of uses around the home garden as an insecticide and fungicide. Perhaps the greatest benefit of using neem oil is that it doesn’t harm or discourage beneficial insects like butterflies, earthworms, and bees. In addition to acting as a powerful fungicide, neem oil makes plants taste bitter so harmful insects do not want to eat them. Visit the following websites to learn more about some popular neem oil formulations:

Arbico Organics http://www.arbico-organics.com/

Neem Tree Farms www.neemtreefarms.com

International Greenhouse Company http://www.greenhousemegastore.com/

The Ahimsa Alternative http://www.neemresource.com/

Potassium Bicarbonate Sprays

Like baking soda (sodium bicarbonate), potassium bicarbonate has strong fungicidal properties. The following are sodium bicarbonate based products:

GreenCure® Organic Fungicide

GreenCure® is a potassium bicarbonate-based fungicide that has been proven to cure and prevent powdery mildew, blackspot, downy mildew, blights, molds and other plant diseases. GreenCure® is as effective as or better than competitive products, can be more economical and, best of all, it’s kinder to you and the environment. http://www.greencure.net/.

Remedy By Bonide

Powder Concentrate – Potassium Bicarbonate 85.0%. This is a reduced risk natural fungicide. This food grade bicarbonate provides outstanding control of many fungal diseases including powdery mildew, leaf spots, anthracnose, phoma, phytopthora, scab, botryrtis and other foliar diseases on woody and herbaceous ornamental plants. It contains a spreader – sticker which helps the material adhere to the plant’s leaves. Only 1½ - 2½ Tblsp./gal. http://www.bonideproducts.com/.

Herbal Fungicides

A promising new product offers an herbal alternative for treating insect and fungus problems and it smells good too.

Zero Tolerance is a potent blend of herbal oils made from pure food grade ingredients which is environmentally safe. In addition to being an effective pesticide, it is effective on scale, powdery mildew and gray and white mold. Visit www.z-tolerance.com.

Remember that offence is a good defense when it comes to preventing fungus problems. Apply the clean gardening practices listed in this article, and you will be well on your way to eliminating most fungus problems before they start.

Dr. Christopher J. Kline is a master gardener and writer living in Paradise Valley Arizona. Chris is a member of the Garden Writers Association and a columnist for Garden and Greenhouse Magazine www.gardenandgreenhouse.net. You can contact him at CKline72@Cox.netThis e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it .

Next Page »